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Posts Tagged ‘Nature’

Halfway through high school I took up backpacking with my older brother’s friend. We hiked quite regularly all through my senior year of high school, 4 years of college, and for a few years declining frequency into my marriage. Most of our trips were one, two, or three nights. Though we always intended to go longer, we never did go longer than 6 nights. Even so, two nights is enough to clear your head and your lungs. Carrying a pack weighing between 30 and 45 pounds up and down steep grades is challenging. Our packs tended to be on the heavier side because we preferred to hike in winter and carry our own tent. We could have cut a few pounds, but equipment was not as light then as now. I have spent many years and many miles day hiking since my 20’s but very few nights out since then. After our backpacking days, our families spent some time together camping and visiting for nearly a decade but various things in our lives over the years drew us apart.

Today the business I work for was shut down for snow. I arose late and had a leisurely day about the house with my wife, only going out for an afternoon walk in the snow. Midmorning I received a message from my old backpacking buddy. He sent a picture of three fresh faced young men in full gear at the beginning of the trail smiling for our pre-trail photo. Check it out at “Old Backpacking Memories.”

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I must confess that I have been to so many waterfalls in East Tennessee and Western North Carolina that relating names to scenes is a lost cause with me. So, when my hiking partner said that he would like to take his brother to Margarette Falls, I responded that I had probably been there but couldn’t remember. His brother was in for the week on business and to visit from Vancouver, WA. I knew miles before we got to the parking lot that I had been there not so long ago. In fact, it is a bit embarrassing to recall that it had been as recently as September, 2022 (check it out at “Birthday Hike“). This hike was different for many reasons. Compare this Tuesday hike of about ten days ago with the one 15 months ago at “M and B Falls.”

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The link does not include pictures or descriptions of the night before soup dinner, the flag football game, or the other meals and late evening discussions, but it does include details on things that I directly participated in and could take pictures of. I went hard at the flag football game and have the sore muscles to prove it. I realized that I am the last of my generation to be playing, the next oldest being in his early 40’s. I am thankful to have an active life. Check out my pictures and commentary at “Active Thanksgiving.”

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Yesterday, I went along with four young people to hike to and explore The Channels just north of Abingdon, VA. It was a beautiful day in every sense. Check it out at “The Channels“.

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Unaka Mountain Road is a 12-mile gravel traverse of the flanks of Unaka Mountain between TN 107 and TN 395 above Erwin. From the TN 107 end, it is a short distance up to an unmarked wide place in the road to park for the short downhill scramble to Red Fork Falls. You cross the creek twice and arrive at the top of the falls. The way down to the base is quite steep but reasonable if you stay off of the enticing cascades. There are actually several smaller falls below the main one and a fascinating rock sluice in between them.

At just over halfway along the gravel (~7 miles), you come to the Emerald Forest Trailhead. A pleasant 1-mile stroll up the Appalachian Trail brings you to the top of the mountain, which is densely covered in Red Spruce trees. There is no view and nothing unusual, but the higher elevation environment with birches and beeches transitioning into Red Spruce and the occasional Balsam Fir (1) all carpeted with mosses, ferns, and wildflowers is pleasant and sparsely traveled. The pure stand of spruce at the peak nearly prevents undergrowth with trunks and dead needles the same color, giving the scene an eerie silence. From afar the peak appears foreboding with the dark cap of spruce needles.

After this leg stretcher, we drove on to Beauty Spot. I told my young friend that I had visited these places (2) last some 35 plus years earlier before he was born. The site has changed somewhat. Either they let the trees grow up around the parking lot or they have moved it, as it seemed to me, because it felt different. You used to be able to get a 360-degree view from the parking lot, but now you have to walk out into the field. And on the south slopes there are small trees grown up that prevent seeing the NC mountains as well. The Spot is aptly named and as is to be expected, this spot was crowded on this Sunday evening.

We didn’t go on any long or difficult hike, but we did get to do a little exploring, see miles of beauty in the macro-, meso-, and micro-environments along the way, and discuss things of interest and substance. Whether you look near or far, there is much beauty and reflected glory of the Creator. That is a good day out. Check out the pictures and commentary at “Red Fork Falls and Beauty Spot.”

  1. The Balsam Wooly Aphid has nearly eliminated the fir from atop this 5100′ peak unlike the top of other peaks (e.g. Clingman’s Dome) where they are making a strong comeback.
  2. Minus Red Fork Falls, a new find for me

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I was talking with a man who I had just met at church today. While sharing various things about each other, we agreed that we like mountains. I mentioned that I like hiking in the mountains. He responded, “Why do you like hiking?”

I paused, not because I had to think why, but because as I momentarily replied, “How don’t I like it?” I could go on and on. The list that I gave him was brief but suggested the deep variety of my reasons for liking to be in the woods. It was fun to make and a to z list of why I like to hike:

-availability: usually at no cost other than the gas to get there and ready whenever I

          have the opportunity to avail myself

-challenge: pushing myself, exercise, distance, steepness, bushwhacking,

negotiating difficult terrain

-colors: leaves of early Spring, deep greens of Summer; Fall’s polychrome; the

          bronze buds and hues of grays and browns of winter bark; the many faces of

          sky and water per season, weather, and time of day

-conversation: with God and with a hiking partner

-exploration: finding new, rarely visited, unique, beautiful spots

-flora: trees in every season and species and shape and maturity; shrubs

          from Flaming Azalea to Doghobble to Rhododendron to Sweetbush;

          herbaceous varieties in bloom and sprouting and full foliage; fungi, lichen,

          mosses, and liverworts

-geology: types; landforms in rock and soil, especially cliffs; random rocks- shiny,

          unique, unexpected

-glory: Due and seen for the infinite, beauty-loving, intelligent, personal Creator

-growing: alive, flourishing, productive, resilient, reproducing

-health: to body, mind, and spirit or trying hard and resting in emotion

-invigorating: Am I beginning to be synonymously redundant?

-memories: of more than 50 years of consistently being on the trail

-promoting: curiosity, knowledge, scientific and Creationist thinking

-sharing: seeing one or two others’, only rarely with groups, pleasure at things I

          show them

-solitude: alone (I do like to hike alone sometimes.), quiet, space for thinking, lack

          of people, distance and exclusion from development

-topography: Folded mountains particularly, I guess since that is what I grew up seeing.

-trails: smooth, rough, steep, flat, lightly traveled, leading somewhere or to the

          known goal

-variety: Just look at this list!

-water: streams flowing and falling and frozen, ponds, sloughs and bogs, rain,

          clouds, humidity and fog, snow and sleet and ice

-weather: anticipation, arrival, artistry, animating

-zoological: mammals from bears to bats to mountain boomers, deer

          birds- song, raptors, water, gliders, woodpeckers owls; reptiles- lizards,

snakes (I don’t seek out the poisonous ones but they do bring and adrenaline

rush.); spiders and other arachnids, insects (not mosquitoes or gnats),

millipedes and centipedes; fish in the streams; crustaceans- snail and crayfish (We call them

crawdads.); amphibians- frogs, toads, salamanders

I wonder what I left off. I am so blessed and thankful to God for the opportunity and love of the mountains. They so speak of His loveliness and power and creativity and sustaining hand.

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I use the phrase, “a stroll in the woods”, to describe many of my outings. Truth be told, they are usually anything but that, being more related to major challenges in the form of strenuous, extreme, view or waterfall goaled pursuits, or bushwhacking. This hike was little more than a stroll in the woods, easy walking, quite pleasant, not recently logged, low underbrush woods. I was amazed several times at how far we had come in such a little time. Only at the end did we break out of the pleasant wood onto a large field. And there we came across an unexpected surprise. Check it out at “Ridgewalk.”

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Not being an expert in my language and far less so in any other language, I am fascinated by multiple definitions of many words. Many times the different definitions share a focus, but other times you have to wonder what mental gymnastics occurred in order to bring about such a definition.

Topographic features have a multitude of names, sometimes with technical differences and other times with only regional usage differences. For example, terms for flowing water in English are many: river, stream, creek, branch, brook, tributary, estuary, course, rivulet, run, rill, and flow to name several. Many of these terms have specific definitions that differentiate them from the others. For instance, an estuary, which you might confuse for a bay, is actually a flooded riverbed. It gives evidence from the erosional pattern on its bed that the ocean was once shallower and the river flowed across the land there.

Other terms for flowing water are vaguer. Consider, what is the difference in a brook and a stream? A less used term, at least in my neck of the woods, is a run. It seems to be more commonly used for upscale subdivision names than actual watercourses. In my mind (opinion?) a run is a small stream that has more or less continuous flow.*

There is a run, Laurel Run, near where I live. I wonder who named it, or more specifically, where they were from that they used the word run rather than crick, a more popular slang in our parts.

The really amazing part of this musing is that the subject of this blog, a hike with a friend, was an excuse to go off on a language tangent about flowing water. Well, at least my mind is not stagnant. If you want to get to the pictures of our hike, click on “Laurel Run and Pretty Ridge.”

*That reminds me. Is a wash a dry watercourse or a stream that is frequently dry? One is a landform whereas the other is the flow across that landform.

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Refalls

I do like to explore new parts of the woods, mountains, and streams, but I also like to show others some frequented beauties. Check out my pictures of just that at “Refalls“.

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I was going to call this “The Downside” to go with the last entry, “The Upside“, but downside has too many unpleasant connotations. There was one downside, however. As of the last entry, we stood atop Cliff Top of Mt. LeConte, 6.6 miles into the trip. Given our chosen route, we still had another 9.0 miles to go, and it wore sorely upon us. Trillium Gap Trail (TGT) was definitely the better downhill choice, but we should have hiked across to the Rainbow Falls trailhead from the TGT-head rather than leaving that traverse for late in the day. It was a pleasant walk with things to see, but, tired as we were, I did not take as many pictures. Click on “LeConte Descent” to see what notable things we saw.

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One way I keep my little exercise outings fresh and real is to change them up and mix and match. I recently did that by way of mountain biking along the Tweetsie Trail in Johnson City with my bouldering pad on my back. This arrangement allowed me to try out some small outcroppings that I had seen and thought good for climbing when my son and I were there a week before (See that outing at “A Few Quick Miles“.) but would be beyond walking distance. The Tweetsie Railroad, begun in 1866, “the ET&WNC line… was to operate from Johnson City, Tennessee, to the iron mines just over the state line at Cranberry, North Carolina. (1)

On the way back from riding and climbing I took some pictures which you may see at “Tweetsie Special.”

  1. https://tweetsie.com/assets/documents/TRRHistory.pdf

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For various reasons I am not able to explore big and faraway places, so I content myself with exploring little nearby places. When you find one within a mile from your workplace convenient for a lunchbreak jaunt, that is even better. Right in the middle of the industrial part of town arises a 200-foot hill that is about 3/4-mile long. Half of it has two steep streets with a few scattered houses clinging to the slopes and a large water tank in the middle. The far end is narrow and very steep sided, very impractical for housing. Someone had the insight to make it into a Mountain Bike Park. Hiking is also allowed on a few of the trails.

One lunchbreak recently I walked two of the trails to see how difficult they are. I was pleasantly surprised by the good variety of trees and wildflowers, the visual seclusion of the site with occasional machinery interrupting sounds, and the utter steepness of the slopes. I invited my son to come ride a few of the trails with me. Both were pleasant days. Check out my walk and biking pictures at Tannery Knobs Mountain Bike Park.

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The day before “A Few Quick Miles“, I went on a hiking trip with a young friend from church with whom I had hiked “Through A Gorge” previously. I had actually wanted to do this hike for over thirty-five years. It is in an area now designated as Pond Mountain Wilderness Area. The draw for me was there were very few trails in the middle of this 6900-acre area. Going off trail can be challenging. I have numerous experiences with bushwhacking, some rewarding and some exhausting and very long. I have learned to avoid off trail in deep draws with creeks unless I have plenty of time, a specific goal, and a good exit strategy.* If you would like to see a few pictures of the trip, click on Pond Mountain.

*I should write a business plan based on bushwhacking.

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It was in the low 20’s with a stiff little breeze. I was looking forward to going into a warm cave (usually 59 degrees at our latitude). From the moment I stepped inside I thought that it felt colder than outside. It turns out that among the many entrances are two large ones, one a collapsed chamber at the top of the hill and the other one where the creek exits, plenty large enough to walk in upright. This arrangement makes for a nice chimney with a good draw of very cold air on this particular morning. At one point the guide was saying that a narrowing in the passage has been measured to have lower barometric pressure and “they” don’t know why. It was too simple. I explained Bernoulli’s Principle and how the narrow section of passage acts as a venturi in a carburetor. The faster the wind, the lower the pressure. It is also interesting that the seven species of bats (five of which are endangered) in this cave are not being decimated by the White Nose Fungal outbreak among bats. The regular exchange of fresh air is probably the reason. The cave also sits at a transition zone where sedimentary and igneous rock are interlayered. Of the several dozen caves that I have been in, it seems to be the most geologically diverse. I enjoyed the tour with my daughter and two grandchildren. It was supposed to be a 45 minute tour, but between Mr. G’s* enthusiasm and knowledge of the cave and our curiosity and general knowledge, the tour was more like 1:45. We as well as he professed to having learned a lot. Check out my pictures at AC Underground and then check out the Appalachian Caverns Facebook page (https://www.facebook.com/appalachian.caverns)

*If you want to ask for a tour guide whose name begins with G, then I would recommend him. I don’t name people on my blog.

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Do you cherish quiet, alone time? It can be a great benefit to calm and focus the soul. Don’t push it away with noise of music and voice, dear reader. Lean into contemplative moments of quiet. It will make your time with others more enjoyable and meaningful. I had a short time in the woods to quiet my spirit. Check out my pictures and reflections at Laurel Falls.

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Exercising and staying in shape is such a relentless, daily task. I don’t mean tedious, though if you don’t enjoy it or sufficiently appreciate the results, it can be. I mean that any let up in the pursuit of staying in shape is met with more likelihood of not staying thus. And I am not even talking about the psychological difficulties, though the tendency to give up or give in is ongoing. I refer instead to the accelerated decline in fitness with each occurrence of inconsistency. I am finding, as I may have been able to guess, that age is a factor trending towards an accelerated acceleration of decline, a real Jerk (1) if you ask me.

Now, I am not the giving up kind, so, I am always thankful for an opportunity to get up, dust off my behind, and jump into the saddle again. After three weeks of minimal exercise because of responsibilities and poor health, I went for a little hike with my middle son. It would have been longer, but neither of us had the stomach for a creek crossing in cold weather. The woods were quiet, the stream bubbling, and the conversation good. See my few pictures at Diminutive Falls.

  1. Physics term, look it up

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I missed out on the Mt. Collins/Clingmans Dome hike, which is OK because I did the hike from Newfound Gap to Clingmans in the winter of ’82 with a foot and a half of snow. I spent the night at Mt. Collins Shelter. I spent the next night under a rock overhang because the drifts prevented me from making it to Spence Field Shelter. But I digress. This hike with my daughter and son-in-law last Saturday was for the purpose of going to Mt. Kephart, a 6217′ knob just off of the main ridge toward Mt. LeConte. We added in a few other notable views, The Jumpoff, the highest single drop in the Smokey Mountains N.P., and Charley’s Bunion, a bare rock with an expansive view, for a total of 9 1/4 miles of hiking. For the pictures of this seventh six thousand foot peak that my daughter has hiked to, click on Mt. Kephart.

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Morning Quick Out

If the park had opened before 8:30, we would have been there earlier. Even so, we waited at the gate for 10 minutes and watched a rafter (flock) of turkeys, and then on up the road a Coyote scampered across the road. A half-dozen other cars came in at gate opening. They all gathered to talk in the parking lot. They seemed to be regulars who knew each other. For the other things we did and saw click on Bays Mountain Morning Hike.

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Hiking the sixers continued this past weekend with a proposed assault on the backside of the Black Mountain ridge that runs from south to north beginning at the Clingmans Peak above the Blue Ridge Parkway, and proceeds to Celo Mountain. The “back” or west side of the ridge is less populated and less accessible. The idea was to go as far up gravel and logging roads in our compact cars as gates and undercarriage clearance would allow, and then hike to the ridge and take in Celo, Gibbs, and Winter Star Mountains, before descending back to Deep Gap and gravel roads and our cars.

Several locals described that last gravel road, which is about 600 feet below the top of the ridge, as the top or high grade. One person explained that this was where the logging and mining railway had been cut many years ago and is relatively flat. There were no gates closed but the road got progressively rough. We should have parked our cars sooner, but we had to push on until the next switchback in order to have a wide place to park and turn around. The extra distance of hiking this resulted in caused us to decide not to include Winter Star on this trip. It definitely could have been done, but there were people already waiting below for longer than anticipated. So, we opted for 2 out of 3.

I continue the story with pictures at Celo and Gibbs.

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As I walked the other day, I observed a Mockingbird pestering a Redtail Hawk. Plucky birds that they are, he cut in and out, notifying the hawk that he was in his territory. The hawk made his ponderous circle upward to free himself from the pest. You know that if he got ahold of Mr. M he would shred him between his talons and beak, but it is not to be because Mockingbirds can make much quicker cuts that hawks can’t follow.

A few days later I heard a Mockingbird as it sat singing in a Maple tree as I walked past. He jumped up to the powerline as I passed under the tree and continued to sing. I have lost count at around 25 to 30 different songs of an educated Mockingbird that used to sit on the light pole where I once taught school, entering under his joyous morning songs. And that reminds me how that I don’t like the name Mockingbird, because they don’t sneer or make fun. Neither do they plagiarize their songs since they give credit to their composers by the songs they sing and to the Creator of them all. Perhaps they should be called Song Learning Birds or Repeater Birds or Remix Songbirds. Anyway, I love to hear them sing.

Yet another day walking I observed Mr. M making a perfect two point landing on a lawn. Approaching at full speed, he flared his flight feathers at the last possible split second and seemed to simply step off of the air onto the lawn. My eye could hardly follow the transition for the speed, but Mr. M executed the move into a bush not long after and I caught more of the action. Then he flew almost vertically from bush to an altitude of 30 feet to peck at an intruding competitor. The two M’s made their quick cuts to claw at and peck toward one another in quick succession. I thought how much more dangerous they were to one another than the hawk was to Mr. M or visa-versa.

I could not have seen any of the flight action had it not been for the color and flashing of feathers. Their lateral tailfeathers are white against the gray background of the rest. They have white mid-wing feathers that barely show until they spread their wings wide. When Mr. M turned his wings downward for the perfect landing, the white on dark gray feathers showed straight in my direction. M’s are not so colorful as other birds but they always seem to be dressed up for any occasion, looking rather sharp.

All of the brief encounters with Mr. M over the past week have caused me to reflect on this pleasure at observing him in various ways and at various times. I have always favored the species, but I think that I could now say that Mr. M at least ranks if not holds the highest regards in my mind among birds. His Creator is certainly of the most intelligent, beauty-loving, design worthy sort, unmatched by any other.

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