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Archive for the ‘Hike’ Category

Due to time, distance, and responsibility, no sixer (1) in reach, we decided to hike Mt. Rogers, the highest point in Virginia at 5729′. The easiest access is from Grayson Highlands State Park, but that is not how we roll. So, we came from VA 603, 6.5 miles to the summit. The road does most of the elevation, leaving a 2400′ elevation gain to the summit. Though listed as hard, for 13 miles out and back, this is a very moderate route with easy grade and smooth trail surface.

My daughter and I hardly felt tired at the summit, so we decided to go back another way, lengthening the return a little and the difficulty a bit. But it was well worth it because the best views and most interesting details were on the return trip. We followed the Appalachian Trail around to the Lewis Fork Wilderness Trail and then the Lewis Fork Spur Trail back to the Mount Rogers Trail back to VA 603. As best I can calculate, our return trip was 7 to 7.5 miles. Being conservative, we hiked 13.5 miles. The cost was some bouldery, ankle-twisting sections and a good half-of-a-mile boggy section. My daughter corrected me to say it was a fen since it was flowing, but I don’t know if there is a term for flowing saturated flat areas in a high mountain forest. It was wet, squishy and required much rock and log hopping to navigate.

When got to the section where the Appalachian Trail and Grayson Highlands Trails used the same path, it was well frequented. On the rest of the Mount Rogers and Lewis Fork Trails, we saw no one. The hike was moderate enough that we finished in less than 8 hours with much sight-seeing and some lounging for peaks and views. If you would like to share a small bit of our adventure, click on “Virginia’s Highest” for pictures and commentary.

  1. Previous posts: https://creatorworship.net/2022/09/19/eastern-sixers/ , https://creatorworship.net/2022/11/03/2-out-of-3-aint-bad/

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I took some young friends to another of the geological curiosities of SW Virginia, Sand Cave. White Rocks is impressive, too, but little odd along an escarpment that runs from SW Virginia to N Georgia. It is the reason the Cumberland Gap was so historically significant. A reasonable route for a wagon road was needed across to the Ohio Valley and Daniel Boone was the man to lead the building of it into Kentucky. On this day my four friends and I were at the NE end of the Cumberland Gap National Historic Park for a moderate climb up to ridgetop and the wonders of geology, forest, and weather. Check out my pictures at “Cliffs and Caves“.

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Halfway through high school I took up backpacking with my older brother’s friend. We hiked quite regularly all through my senior year of high school, 4 years of college, and for a few years declining frequency into my marriage. Most of our trips were one, two, or three nights. Though we always intended to go longer, we never did go longer than 6 nights. Even so, two nights is enough to clear your head and your lungs. Carrying a pack weighing between 30 and 45 pounds up and down steep grades is challenging. Our packs tended to be on the heavier side because we preferred to hike in winter and carry our own tent. We could have cut a few pounds, but equipment was not as light then as now. I have spent many years and many miles day hiking since my 20’s but very few nights out since then. After our backpacking days, our families spent some time together camping and visiting for nearly a decade but various things in our lives over the years drew us apart.

Today the business I work for was shut down for snow. I arose late and had a leisurely day about the house with my wife, only going out for an afternoon walk in the snow. Midmorning I received a message from my old backpacking buddy. He sent a picture of three fresh faced young men in full gear at the beginning of the trail smiling for our pre-trail photo. Check it out at “Old Backpacking Memories.”

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I must confess that I have been to so many waterfalls in East Tennessee and Western North Carolina that relating names to scenes is a lost cause with me. So, when my hiking partner said that he would like to take his brother to Margarette Falls, I responded that I had probably been there but couldn’t remember. His brother was in for the week on business and to visit from Vancouver, WA. I knew miles before we got to the parking lot that I had been there not so long ago. In fact, it is a bit embarrassing to recall that it had been as recently as September, 2022 (check it out at “Birthday Hike“). This hike was different for many reasons. Compare this Tuesday hike of about ten days ago with the one 15 months ago at “M and B Falls.”

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Yesterday, I went along with four young people to hike to and explore The Channels just north of Abingdon, VA. It was a beautiful day in every sense. Check it out at “The Channels“.

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Unaka Mountain Road is a 12-mile gravel traverse of the flanks of Unaka Mountain between TN 107 and TN 395 above Erwin. From the TN 107 end, it is a short distance up to an unmarked wide place in the road to park for the short downhill scramble to Red Fork Falls. You cross the creek twice and arrive at the top of the falls. The way down to the base is quite steep but reasonable if you stay off of the enticing cascades. There are actually several smaller falls below the main one and a fascinating rock sluice in between them.

At just over halfway along the gravel (~7 miles), you come to the Emerald Forest Trailhead. A pleasant 1-mile stroll up the Appalachian Trail brings you to the top of the mountain, which is densely covered in Red Spruce trees. There is no view and nothing unusual, but the higher elevation environment with birches and beeches transitioning into Red Spruce and the occasional Balsam Fir (1) all carpeted with mosses, ferns, and wildflowers is pleasant and sparsely traveled. The pure stand of spruce at the peak nearly prevents undergrowth with trunks and dead needles the same color, giving the scene an eerie silence. From afar the peak appears foreboding with the dark cap of spruce needles.

After this leg stretcher, we drove on to Beauty Spot. I told my young friend that I had visited these places (2) last some 35 plus years earlier before he was born. The site has changed somewhat. Either they let the trees grow up around the parking lot or they have moved it, as it seemed to me, because it felt different. You used to be able to get a 360-degree view from the parking lot, but now you have to walk out into the field. And on the south slopes there are small trees grown up that prevent seeing the NC mountains as well. The Spot is aptly named and as is to be expected, this spot was crowded on this Sunday evening.

We didn’t go on any long or difficult hike, but we did get to do a little exploring, see miles of beauty in the macro-, meso-, and micro-environments along the way, and discuss things of interest and substance. Whether you look near or far, there is much beauty and reflected glory of the Creator. That is a good day out. Check out the pictures and commentary at “Red Fork Falls and Beauty Spot.”

  1. The Balsam Wooly Aphid has nearly eliminated the fir from atop this 5100′ peak unlike the top of other peaks (e.g. Clingman’s Dome) where they are making a strong comeback.
  2. Minus Red Fork Falls, a new find for me

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Yeah, I didn’t spell that wrongly. It is a play on words. I went on a two-night camping trip with my older brothers and their wives at Gorges State Park in Transylvania County, NC. As the name implies, it has some very rough real estate. In fact, it sits on the SC border where the escarpment drops out of the mountains into the Piedmont. The gorges are not what I usually think of as a gorge (1), however, since there are no cliffs in the park that I saw. Instead, they are steep-sided and steep-graded draws where creeks have worn down to bedrock, leaving cascades and the occasional freefall waterfall. Because of how fast the mountains drop away, Transylvania County has 250 waterfalls. That gets me to wondering how a waterfall is defined (see “Cascades, Not Falls“). What is the minimum height limit? What is the minimum slope of cascades? Does water have to leave contact with the surface in a cascade to be counted? There is little doubt that the various creeks have multiple waterfalls, but how are they counted? One thing that I observed in the Visitor’s Center while comparing labeled pictures of waterfalls and trails marked with waterfalls in the park was that most of the falls in the park don’t have trails to them. That sounds like to me an excellent excuse to go back and bushwhack more. The combination of geology, topography, aspect, and prevailing winds results in significant rainfall and runoff. The average annual rainfall in Upper East Tennessee where I live is about 44 inches. In Morganton, NC, where I used to live, it is 51 inches. In Gorges State Park, the average annual rainfall is 91 inches, making it nearly a temperate rainforest. That is all good for the waterfalls, but the particularly shallow topsoil still causes the tree cover to be predominated by drier slope varieties like pines and certain oaks. However, seeps here and there are lush with a profusion of hornworts, ferns, orchids, and many other wildflowers. Check out all of the gorges lushness at “Gorges State Park.”

  1. “gorge- a narrow valley between hills or mountains, typically with steep rocky walls and a stream running through it” https://www.bing.com/search?q=gorge+definition&form=ANNTH1&refig=31b0bb6c75e64e7bb332c55d569e5433

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I was talking with a man who I had just met at church today. While sharing various things about each other, we agreed that we like mountains. I mentioned that I like hiking in the mountains. He responded, “Why do you like hiking?”

I paused, not because I had to think why, but because as I momentarily replied, “How don’t I like it?” I could go on and on. The list that I gave him was brief but suggested the deep variety of my reasons for liking to be in the woods. It was fun to make and a to z list of why I like to hike:

-availability: usually at no cost other than the gas to get there and ready whenever I

          have the opportunity to avail myself

-challenge: pushing myself, exercise, distance, steepness, bushwhacking,

negotiating difficult terrain

-colors: leaves of early Spring, deep greens of Summer; Fall’s polychrome; the

          bronze buds and hues of grays and browns of winter bark; the many faces of

          sky and water per season, weather, and time of day

-conversation: with God and with a hiking partner

-exploration: finding new, rarely visited, unique, beautiful spots

-flora: trees in every season and species and shape and maturity; shrubs

          from Flaming Azalea to Doghobble to Rhododendron to Sweetbush;

          herbaceous varieties in bloom and sprouting and full foliage; fungi, lichen,

          mosses, and liverworts

-geology: types; landforms in rock and soil, especially cliffs; random rocks- shiny,

          unique, unexpected

-glory: Due and seen for the infinite, beauty-loving, intelligent, personal Creator

-growing: alive, flourishing, productive, resilient, reproducing

-health: to body, mind, and spirit or trying hard and resting in emotion

-invigorating: Am I beginning to be synonymously redundant?

-memories: of more than 50 years of consistently being on the trail

-promoting: curiosity, knowledge, scientific and Creationist thinking

-sharing: seeing one or two others’, only rarely with groups, pleasure at things I

          show them

-solitude: alone (I do like to hike alone sometimes.), quiet, space for thinking, lack

          of people, distance and exclusion from development

-topography: Folded mountains particularly, I guess since that is what I grew up seeing.

-trails: smooth, rough, steep, flat, lightly traveled, leading somewhere or to the

          known goal

-variety: Just look at this list!

-water: streams flowing and falling and frozen, ponds, sloughs and bogs, rain,

          clouds, humidity and fog, snow and sleet and ice

-weather: anticipation, arrival, artistry, animating

-zoological: mammals from bears to bats to mountain boomers, deer

          birds- song, raptors, water, gliders, woodpeckers owls; reptiles- lizards,

snakes (I don’t seek out the poisonous ones but they do bring and adrenaline

rush.); spiders and other arachnids, insects (not mosquitoes or gnats),

millipedes and centipedes; fish in the streams; crustaceans- snail and crayfish (We call them

crawdads.); amphibians- frogs, toads, salamanders

I wonder what I left off. I am so blessed and thankful to God for the opportunity and love of the mountains. They so speak of His loveliness and power and creativity and sustaining hand.

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I use the phrase, “a stroll in the woods”, to describe many of my outings. Truth be told, they are usually anything but that, being more related to major challenges in the form of strenuous, extreme, view or waterfall goaled pursuits, or bushwhacking. This hike was little more than a stroll in the woods, easy walking, quite pleasant, not recently logged, low underbrush woods. I was amazed several times at how far we had come in such a little time. Only at the end did we break out of the pleasant wood onto a large field. And there we came across an unexpected surprise. Check it out at “Ridgewalk.”

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Was it just five weeks ago that I took a young friend to a couple of waterfalls? (see “Refalls“) Other friends heard his description of these places and wanted to see them. So, last Saturday we carpooled to a few of my old haunts, places I could give a tour of because of the number of times I have been there previously. Check out the pictures and commentary of this outing at “Linville Falls and Gorge.”

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Not being an expert in my language and far less so in any other language, I am fascinated by multiple definitions of many words. Many times the different definitions share a focus, but other times you have to wonder what mental gymnastics occurred in order to bring about such a definition.

Topographic features have a multitude of names, sometimes with technical differences and other times with only regional usage differences. For example, terms for flowing water in English are many: river, stream, creek, branch, brook, tributary, estuary, course, rivulet, run, rill, and flow to name several. Many of these terms have specific definitions that differentiate them from the others. For instance, an estuary, which you might confuse for a bay, is actually a flooded riverbed. It gives evidence from the erosional pattern on its bed that the ocean was once shallower and the river flowed across the land there.

Other terms for flowing water are vaguer. Consider, what is the difference in a brook and a stream? A less used term, at least in my neck of the woods, is a run. It seems to be more commonly used for upscale subdivision names than actual watercourses. In my mind (opinion?) a run is a small stream that has more or less continuous flow.*

There is a run, Laurel Run, near where I live. I wonder who named it, or more specifically, where they were from that they used the word run rather than crick, a more popular slang in our parts.

The really amazing part of this musing is that the subject of this blog, a hike with a friend, was an excuse to go off on a language tangent about flowing water. Well, at least my mind is not stagnant. If you want to get to the pictures of our hike, click on “Laurel Run and Pretty Ridge.”

*That reminds me. Is a wash a dry watercourse or a stream that is frequently dry? One is a landform whereas the other is the flow across that landform.

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Refalls

I do like to explore new parts of the woods, mountains, and streams, but I also like to show others some frequented beauties. Check out my pictures of just that at “Refalls“.

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I was going to call this “The Downside” to go with the last entry, “The Upside“, but downside has too many unpleasant connotations. There was one downside, however. As of the last entry, we stood atop Cliff Top of Mt. LeConte, 6.6 miles into the trip. Given our chosen route, we still had another 9.0 miles to go, and it wore sorely upon us. Trillium Gap Trail (TGT) was definitely the better downhill choice, but we should have hiked across to the Rainbow Falls trailhead from the TGT-head rather than leaving that traverse for late in the day. It was a pleasant walk with things to see, but, tired as we were, I did not take as many pictures. Click on “LeConte Descent” to see what notable things we saw.

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Continuing the story about a Mt. LeConte hike this past week (see “Approach Day“), we arose just after 5 AM and got away at 6:15 for a one-hour drive to the trailhead. I had wanted to hike Trillium Gap and Rainbow Falls Trails. My daughter asked me about how they are different. I said Rainbow Falls Trail is shorter, steeper, and rockier. She said that she would prefer to go up on a steeper trail since coming down that way would be more painful on her knees.

So, carrying one pack with food and clothing and water, about 25 pounds, and carrying a second pack with her son and water, about 35 pounds, we started off. I record our progress with commentary and pictures at “Rainbow Falls Ascent“.

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I was chosen to take the place of my daughter’s hiking partner who had other responsibilities crop up. We were slated to take a 16-mile hike to Mt. LeConte in the Smoky Mountains National Park. Over the next several blog entries I am going to lay out the gist of the trip. The first day was travel and rest. Pictures of our lodging place are included at “Cabin up the Crick” along with a little flashback surprise.

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For various reasons I am not able to explore big and faraway places, so I content myself with exploring little nearby places. When you find one within a mile from your workplace convenient for a lunchbreak jaunt, that is even better. Right in the middle of the industrial part of town arises a 200-foot hill that is about 3/4-mile long. Half of it has two steep streets with a few scattered houses clinging to the slopes and a large water tank in the middle. The far end is narrow and very steep sided, very impractical for housing. Someone had the insight to make it into a Mountain Bike Park. Hiking is also allowed on a few of the trails.

One lunchbreak recently I walked two of the trails to see how difficult they are. I was pleasantly surprised by the good variety of trees and wildflowers, the visual seclusion of the site with occasional machinery interrupting sounds, and the utter steepness of the slopes. I invited my son to come ride a few of the trails with me. Both were pleasant days. Check out my walk and biking pictures at Tannery Knobs Mountain Bike Park.

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The day before “A Few Quick Miles“, I went on a hiking trip with a young friend from church with whom I had hiked “Through A Gorge” previously. I had actually wanted to do this hike for over thirty-five years. It is in an area now designated as Pond Mountain Wilderness Area. The draw for me was there were very few trails in the middle of this 6900-acre area. Going off trail can be challenging. I have numerous experiences with bushwhacking, some rewarding and some exhausting and very long. I have learned to avoid off trail in deep draws with creeks unless I have plenty of time, a specific goal, and a good exit strategy.* If you would like to see a few pictures of the trip, click on Pond Mountain.

*I should write a business plan based on bushwhacking.

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It was in the low 20’s with a stiff little breeze. I was looking forward to going into a warm cave (usually 59 degrees at our latitude). From the moment I stepped inside I thought that it felt colder than outside. It turns out that among the many entrances are two large ones, one a collapsed chamber at the top of the hill and the other one where the creek exits, plenty large enough to walk in upright. This arrangement makes for a nice chimney with a good draw of very cold air on this particular morning. At one point the guide was saying that a narrowing in the passage has been measured to have lower barometric pressure and “they” don’t know why. It was too simple. I explained Bernoulli’s Principle and how the narrow section of passage acts as a venturi in a carburetor. The faster the wind, the lower the pressure. It is also interesting that the seven species of bats (five of which are endangered) in this cave are not being decimated by the White Nose Fungal outbreak among bats. The regular exchange of fresh air is probably the reason. The cave also sits at a transition zone where sedimentary and igneous rock are interlayered. Of the several dozen caves that I have been in, it seems to be the most geologically diverse. I enjoyed the tour with my daughter and two grandchildren. It was supposed to be a 45 minute tour, but between Mr. G’s* enthusiasm and knowledge of the cave and our curiosity and general knowledge, the tour was more like 1:45. We as well as he professed to having learned a lot. Check out my pictures at AC Underground and then check out the Appalachian Caverns Facebook page (https://www.facebook.com/appalachian.caverns)

*If you want to ask for a tour guide whose name begins with G, then I would recommend him. I don’t name people on my blog.

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Do you cherish quiet, alone time? It can be a great benefit to calm and focus the soul. Don’t push it away with noise of music and voice, dear reader. Lean into contemplative moments of quiet. It will make your time with others more enjoyable and meaningful. I had a short time in the woods to quiet my spirit. Check out my pictures and reflections at Laurel Falls.

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Exercising and staying in shape is such a relentless, daily task. I don’t mean tedious, though if you don’t enjoy it or sufficiently appreciate the results, it can be. I mean that any let up in the pursuit of staying in shape is met with more likelihood of not staying thus. And I am not even talking about the psychological difficulties, though the tendency to give up or give in is ongoing. I refer instead to the accelerated decline in fitness with each occurrence of inconsistency. I am finding, as I may have been able to guess, that age is a factor trending towards an accelerated acceleration of decline, a real Jerk (1) if you ask me.

Now, I am not the giving up kind, so, I am always thankful for an opportunity to get up, dust off my behind, and jump into the saddle again. After three weeks of minimal exercise because of responsibilities and poor health, I went for a little hike with my middle son. It would have been longer, but neither of us had the stomach for a creek crossing in cold weather. The woods were quiet, the stream bubbling, and the conversation good. See my few pictures at Diminutive Falls.

  1. Physics term, look it up

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